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Lajitas/Big Bend Ranch State Park
Devils River
If youre looking for a day trip packed with museums, restaurants, and shopping, then stay away from the Devils River. However, if youre looking for an adventure surrounded by nothing but Gods green earth thats totally off the grid, then a paddling trip down the Devils River might be exactly what you need. To download this episode or purchase it on DVD – CLICK HERE.
This wild, West Texas river snakes its way through some of the roughest country in Texas. It starts in the middle of the desert, and eventually winds its way into Lake Amistad along the Rio Grande and very close to the city of Del Rio. The water is an amazing turquoise blue, but dont let its beauty deceive you. Behind its alluring façade is a myriad of toils and travails. Waterfalls, rapids, snakes, scorpions, and flash floods – not to mention VERY protective land owners that would rather not have you paddling through their giant backyard. Just make sure you know the rules and come prepared to face anything the river may throw at you. Start your trip by contacting Texas Parks and Wildlife to get a list of the rules and a permit. The rules are too long to list here, but the most important one is that you stay within the riverbed and respect private property. You dont want to anger the land owners that keep this river so pristine. Next, I recommend finding an outfitter. There are a number of fishing guides that can set you up on a very nice trip. For for the DIY types, I HIGHLY recommend Amistad Expeditions. They can not only rent you a boat, but also give you a shuttle and valuable insight into the river. Check TPWDs website for a list of other recommended guides. Youll then need to figure out what part of the river you want to paddle. The most popular runs are (1) from Bakers Crossing to the State Parks South Big Satan unit, or (2) the shorter run from the State Parks North Del Norte unit down to Big Satan. Be warned that the stretch from Bakers to Del Norte can be super low, meaning youll be dragging your boat a lot. Until water levels rise, Id stick to option 2. Also be advised that the Big Satan unit is closed to the public, but open to approved guides taking paddlers off the river. This is another reason youll want to stick with one of the guides on TPWDs website. Paddling below Big Satan is tough as the river widens going into the lake and the strong canyon headwinds can be brutal. As you paddle down the river, there are a number of amazing sites and things to do. The fishing on Devils River is epic, especially for largemouth and small mouth bass. So make sure you have a license and a fishing pole. Also, the Dolan Falls waterfall is an amazing natural wonder and super-cool swimming hole. Just be careful, as its owned by the Nature Conservancy. So, enjoy, but respect too. Finally, dont miss the prehistoric pictographs on some of the cave walls. The best one that can be appreciated from the riverbed is on Turkey Bluff and depicts a coyote chasing a turkey a storyline that predates Wylie Coyote by some 4,000 years. The most important thing you must remember is that the Devils River is the most pristine river in Texas for a reason. It is heavily guarded by both the public and private entities that watch over its water. Rivers are meant for public enjoyment, but everyone must be respectful of the land and water. After all, its the rivers beauty that draws you out here, so dont mess it up now.
Tomball, TX
While the lights of Houston shine brightly, don’t let them outshine this small Texas town just 30 miles north. While it’s had a number of names over the years (Peck, TX; Oil Town USA), today it’s named after the man responsible for bringing the railroad to this rural community. A man named Thomas Henry Ball – aka Tom Ball. If you visit, you’ll find a growing city that’s still connected to its historic past. To download this episode or purchase it on DVD – CLICK HERE.
CULTURE
If you’re looking for the history of town, there are two primary places to see. The first is the renovated Railroad Depot. It sits just a stone’s throw from Main Street right on the tracks and takes visitors to the time when the railroad was king. Suddenly this outlying community was connected to the rest of the world and began to boom. The next museum you need to see is the Tomball Museum Center. Rather than one building packed with stuff, this is a collection of historic buildings each filled with artifacts giving visitors a glimpse into an era of Tomball’s history. There is a log cabin, a schoolhouse, a church, and many more. My favorite is the 1940’s oil camp house commemorating the discovery of oil in Tomball which made this city’s population triple in a few short years.
The most popular weekend activity in Tomball is definitely antique shopping. There too many to list. Swing a stick and you’ll hit one. Whatever you do, don’t miss Bob’s Wild West, a small shop packed with antique guns and things killed with guns. You’ll find spurs, knives, and a small Texas Ranger Hall of Fame containing a pistol at the shoot out of Bonnie and Clyde.
If you want to step into a flying museum, then contact the Commemorative Air Force Gulf Coast Wing to see “Texas Raiders” a restored B-17 Flying Fortress. Multiple times a year, they take this gal up in the sky giving riders a once in a lifetime experience.
FOOD
When you’ve worked up a giant appetite, Tomball has a number of giant options. For Texas tea room that’s nothing like a grandma-inspired tea party, head to The Whistle Stop Tea Room. Here you’ll find amazing sandwiches (jalapeno pimento cheese anyone?), homemade soups, and a dessert case that’s worth the stop alone. For country cookin’ with a Texas-sized competition, head to Mel’s Country Cafe. It sits out in the country, but that doesn’t stop folks from lining up to partake in the goodness. Both the chicken-fried steak and hamburger are considered the tops by Texas Monthly. But the burger that tops them all is the Mega Mel. A behemoth of meat, cheese, and bacon. It you can eat it in two hours, you get immortal glory on the wall…and a T-shirt.
OUTDOORS
Tomball has a number of great city parks. Spring Creek Park is massive with tall pines and open fields for playing frisbee or having a picnic. In the back corner, you’ll also find a historic marker for a Confederate gun powder mill that exploded on this site killing everyone inside. It left a crater so big that when it filled with rainwater it became a popular swimming hole that many say is haunted. Another important park down the way is New Kentucky Park, the site of Sam Houston’s famous “fork in the road.” During the Texas Revolution, he had to make a decision, turn left and run for safety in Louisiana or turn right and face the Mexican Army. Sam took a right and headed toward San Jacinto…the rest, my friends, is history.
Huntsville, TX
Some folks think the only way to visit Huntsville is in handcuffs with an official escort that definitely aint a tour guide. But trust me, visiting Huntsville is not sentenced punishment, but one of the best days in your life.
There are two major reasons Huntsville is famous. The first is General Sam Houston, arguably the greatest Texan to ever live. General Sam lived in Huntsville on multiple occasions and the best place in Texas to learn about his life is the Sam Houston Memorial Museum, which is full of artifacts and lessons on every chapter of his life. Behind the museum sits the Woodland home that Houston built and where he raised his family. Also on site is the Steamboat House where Houston died. Other notable Houston sites about town are the 77 foot tall Houston statue on I-45 at the Visitors Center, and Houston grave in the Oakwood Cemetery.
Huntsville is also famous for the being the home of the Texas Prison System. The Huntsville Unit (aka Walls Unit) was the first state penitentiary in Texas and sits just blocks from the Walker County Courthouse. Take a stroll around its towering wall, or get a glimpse beyond the wall at the Texas Prison Museum and learn all about the current and past Texas Prison System. Among its many interesting artifacts is Old Sparky Texass only electric chair used to execute 361 inmates when in commission here in Huntsville.
If you are hungry and want to stick with the prison theme, head to Mr. Hamburger (since 1959) for a Warden burger with grilled onions and mushrooms, or even an Ol Sparky complete with Texas in July sauce. For BB-Q, head to New Zion Missionary Baptist Church BBQ, or for short Church BBQ. This Baptist church also sells some of the finest BBQ in the piney woods, but its only open Thurs-Sat. And if you want to eat a meal worthy of being your last meal on earth, head to The Homestead on 19th which resides on Sam Houstons old property in an 1830’s log cabin. It is truly one of the best meals in Texas and its served in one of the most unique environments.
If you are craving the outdoors, look no further than Huntsville State Park for a swim, some fishing or a hike. You might also get to see one of the parks resident alligators. For SCUBA diving in some of the most turquoise waters north of Cancun, take a dip in The Blue Lagoon. They also allow swimming based on capacity. So call ahead.
Canyon Lake, TX
This reservoir along the Guadalupe River is a great place for swimmin, eatin, and explorin. Check it out.If the first thing on your list is taking a dip, then Canyon Lake has what you need. If you can navigate some steep steps, head to Overlook Park. But if youve got small ones that want to play on a flat, rocky beach, then Comal Park has your name on it.
If you are part explorer, part science nerd, and part history buff, then you need to check out the Canyon Lake Gorge. For some grub, head to Franks Bait & Tacos.
Lockhart, TX
Lockhart is the officially the Barbecue Capital of Texas. Need we say more?There is a challenge in Texas that few brave souls attempt, but for those willing to accept this meaty mission, it carries BBQ street credibility unlike anything else. It is the Lockhart BB-Q challenge. The rules are simple Eat at all 4 BBQ joints in Lockhart in one day. Good luck and bring your antacid.
The 4 joints (in alphabetical order) are Blacks Barbecue, Chisholm Trail BBQ, Kreuz Market, and Smittys Market. Each is unique in its own smoky way. I recommend them all.
If you need a break between BBQ binges, check out Lockhart State Park and enjoy its 9-hole golf course or take a hike along Clear Fork Creek. For history buffs that want to stay in the middle of town, tour the historic Caldwell County Courthouse or the Caldwell County Museum sitting inside of the old jail.
Luling, TX
This is a town known for two things: Bar-B-Q and watermelon. Youd be hard pressed to think of two better things to be known for. According to Texas Monthly, Luling is home to some of the best BB-Q in the Lone Star State. And they are right! Luling City Market is one of Texass most-storied BB-Q joints serving up 3 meats and only 3 meats: brisket, sausage, and ribs. Across the street sits Luling Bar-B-Q a relative new-comer in Luling, as its only been around for 30 years. Try one or try them both, but make sure to save room for watermelon which can be bought just across the street at the Luling Farmers Market.
If you do buy a watermelon, Id recommend taking it down to Zedler Mill to crack it open and enjoy it on the banks of the San Marcos River at this old renovated mill and one of Texass best swimming holes. Or if you want to go a bit further, head to Palmetto State Park, and eat your watermelon in the river or while exploring its unique hiking trails full of Palmetto palms.
Other attractions in Luling worth checking out include the Central Texas Oil Patch Museum, and Lulings Pumpjack Zoo Tour with oil pumps decorated as everything from quarterbacks to killer whales.
Smithville, TX
Lots of things float in Smithville. Hope, Smoke, and YOU on a road bike when you visit Smithville.
Smithville is a picturesque and quintessential small town which is why its been the setting for tons of motion pictures. However, none made Smithville more famous than 1998’s Hope Floats starring Sandra Bullock and Harry Connick Jr. Sights from Hope Floats, Tree of Life, and many others lie all around town. The Smithville Chamber of Commerce can point you in the right direction for a self-guided tour. And Pockets Grille has tons of local movie memorabilia. In town, youll also want to see Smitty who was once the largest gingerbread man in the world. He sits at the end of Main St. and is often dressed for the seasonal holiday and weather.
Outside of town in the nearby community of Winchester is a delicious steakhouse and post office called Murphys Steakhouse. It isnt to be missed and often has more customers than the entire community of Winchester has residents. Folks come for miles to eat at Murphys and you should too. After dinner, wash it down with a scoop of Blue Bell from the Winchester Depot and a ride on an old carousel ride just outside the door. Sadly, Zimmerhanzels Bar-B-Que where we ate in the episode is shut down.
Also not to be missed is the Central Texas Museum of Automotive History in the town of Rosanky. This unexpected car museum has over 100 antique and collectible automobiles. Its incredible.
And finally, if you want to spend some time outdoors, head to Buescher State Park. You can also bike to Buescher via Bastrop State Park.
Bastrop, TX
Bastrop is a city tucked away along the winding Colorado River and lost within the Lost Pines.
To appreciate Bastrop, it is mandatory to exit Highway 71. Or else youd miss the three crown jewels of Bastrop: (1) the Colorado River, (2) Bastrops historic downtown, and (3) the Lost Pines.
For a first stop, Id head straight downtown. Grab a giant Chicken Fried Steak and sip sweet tea from a mason jar at Maxine’s on Main. Then head over to Lock Drugs, a old pharmacy , and wash it all down with a hand-dipped Blue Bell milkshake from their old-fashioned soda fountain. Downtown is also a great place to do some shopping, antiquing, and maybe grab an old-fashioned shave from John’s Barber Shop. Also, dont miss the chance to spit off the bridge. Be sure to ask a local for details on this one. For the best food outside of downtown, hit up Roadhouse where I highly recommend diving into a Jalapeno-Cream-Cheeseburger. You wont regret it.
If you seek the natural side of Bastrop, take a trip down the Colorado River along the El Camino Real Paddling Trail, a six mile trail winding around the city and finishing up at the Lost Pines Recreational Trails. Rising Phoenix Adventures would be happy to set you up with a kayak or canoe. You can also head to Bastrop State Park to see the famous Lost Pines a group of Loblolly Pine trees that got separated from East Texas during the ice age and are now permanent residents of Bastrop.
Burnet, TX
Burnet is a town that sits within spitting distance to two perfect hill country lakes. Need we say more
Thats right, Inks Lake and Lake Buchanan are two great reasons to make a trip to Burnet. But they arent the only reasons. While in Burnet, check out Fort Croghan for some frontier history and the Highland Lakes Squadron of the Commemorative Air Force for some aviation history and to hop aboard their beautifully restored antique planes. If you are looking for a bite to eat, I highly recommend picking up some homemade Tex-Mex and a backrub from The Maxican or BB-Q at Burnet Feed Store BBQ located inside an old feed store. (Unfortunately, Bertram BB-Q featured in the episode closed its doors.)
Now for the lakes! To explore Inks Lake, head to Inks Lake State Park with miles of hiking trails and plenty of ways to get in the water. If you are feeling risky, I recommend cliff jumping in at the Devils Waterhole. But if you are more vampire than swimmer, then go underground at Longhorn Cavern State Park to caves that have been everything from a tribal council room to a 1920’s speakeasy.
To see Lake Buchanan, hop aboard a Vanishing Texas River Cruise taking visitors upstream to experience the wild side of Texas. In the winter you might even get the chance to spot bald eagles that spend the winter around the lake. But whether you see eagles or not, you can see the beautiful 25 foot Fall Creek waterfalls, a stunning and unexpected surprise in the Texas Hill Country. To ride through the falls or just around the lake, rent a kayak or canoe from Buchanan Adventure Tours based out of the LCRAs beautiful Canyon of the Eagles nature park. Which is an excellent place to stop and have dinner over the lake or spend the weekend.
Waco, TX
To most, Waco is a highway. Nothing more. A pass-through, not a destination. But to those who are willing to look a little deeper, Waco is much, much more.
FOOD
Kick your day off with a caffeine jolt to the mouth at Common Grounds, a locally-owned coffee shop. Common Grounds has all forms of caffeine to fuel your day trip from classics like cold brewed coffee and espresso to specialties like iced coffees with peanut butter and chocolate.
At Health Camp, they’ve got the three main food groups: Burger, Cheeseburger and Bacon Cheese Burger. If it’s soy burgers and salads you want…you won’t find them here at this 60-year old, ironically-named burger joint on the circle. Just delicious burgers and fries. And for a definitely-not-healthy dessert, try their frozen custard that comes in amazing flavors like Chocolate Chip Cheesecake, Toasted Marshmallow, Peach and more!
Hit up Tony DeMarias Bar-B-Que for some fantastic BBQ…well, if you arrive before they sell out. If you want pizza and secret hideouts, look no further than Poppa Rollos. You can try one of their specialty pizzas or create your own…and behind a secret door near the phone booth you might just find a bar.
One of my favorite things to do in Waco is grab a cold one and relax at George’s Restaurant. It’s been serving up chicken fried steaks and homecooking since 1930.
OUTDOORS
Other stops in Waco include Cameron Park, which has some of Texas best mountain biking and beautiful views of the Brazos and Bosque Rivers. And while you’re at the park, check out the Cameron Park Zoo to say “hello” to the bears, giraffes and elephants. They even have Komodo Dragons!
Right off I-35 is Texas’s Oldest University, Baylor University. Take a stroll around Baylors campus to check out Baylors Bear Habitat where they keep the mascots and also stop by the famous Pat Neff Hall.
CULTURE
If a university tour has you in the mood to learn, Waco has museums for every kind of curious tripper. History buffs should check out the Texas Ranger Museum. Science junkies should head to the Mayborn Science Museum on the Baylor University Campus.
Sports Fanatics can head to the Texas Sports Hall of Fame. But everybody should go to the Dr Pepper Museum to learn how the oldest major soft drink on the market was invented in Waco. And dont miss the old-fashioned soda fountain at the end where you can enjoy a frosty glass of Dr Pepper or an ice cream float.
