highlight: museums
Blanco, TX
Blanco is that little town in the Hill Country that you could drive through in 5 minutes, or spend a week exploring. Those that are in the know travel here to spend a day or longer diving into the history, blue water, and food. To download the episode or purchase it on DVD – CLICK HERE.
CULTURE
The first thing most notice when they visit Blanco is the Old Blanco County Courthouse which was built in 1886. While it looks very official, it only served as the county courthouse for 4 years, because in 1890 the authorities moved the county seat 14 miles up the road to Johnson City. Today this old building serves as a museum, a gathering place, and a movie set. If you walk upstairs into the courtroom, you can feel the presence of Rooster Cogburn (aka Jeff Bridges) from the 2010 film “True Grit.”
If you love movie history or just history in general, then you’ll want to head to the Blanco Buggy Barn Museum which showcases over 100 different buggies from around the globe. Many of the buggies have been used in films such as “Gone With the Wind,” “There Will Be Blood,” and “Abe Lincoln: Vampire Hunter.” It’s amazing to look at how the technology progressed during the era of horse-drawn transportation. If you arrange it early, the owners will take you on a buggy ride around town.
Blanco’s biggest modern-day contribution to Texas culture is to the growing Texas craft beer scene. If you’re into craft beer, then you’ve heard of Real Ale Brewing, or at least Firemans #4, it’s most popular variety. Many don’t realize that it’s brewed down a dirt road in the heart of Blanco. They offer great tours of their facilities and brewing processes on weekends but even if you don’t take a tour, you can visit their tasting room and sample one (or more) of their dozen or so brews. I highly recommend sampling some of their barrel-aged “Mysterium” series, where they let beer sit in wine and whiskey barrels. It comes out completely different.
If you’re more into Texas wildflowers than Texas beer, then you’ll be happy to know that Blanco is the “Lavender Capital of Texas” and during the summer months, you can visit lavender fields to pick your own puffs of the purple stuff. I highly recommend Hill Country Lavender. Not only do they offer a really great picking experience, but they also sell all of their lavender products on site, so you can stock up on sleep-inducing and bug-repelling lotions, creams, and soaps.
Lastly, there’s a hill country tradition that exists ONLY in a number of small German communities across Texas. It’s 9-pin bowling, and is done in private bowling clubs. It’s different than traditional 10-pin bowling in that the pins are set up in a diamond and bowlers get extra points if they leave the middle one standing. It’s very fun but hard for an outsider to experience. UNLESS – you are in Blanco on a Saturday night, when the Blanco Bowling Club is open to the public. Make sure to call ahead and let them know you are coming, as they’ll need to make sure a pin-setter is on site. This is such a rare game that there are NO machines to do the work, so high schoolers earn extra cash setting up pins after folks knock ’em down.
FOOD
No trip to Blanco would be complete without a trip to the Redbud Cafe on the square. This local favorite mixes fresh sandwiches, baked cookies, and craft beer to become the most charming cafe-bakery-bar combo in Texas. They make perhaps the best reuben sandwich I’ve ever had, and in the winter they make amazing potato chip cookies. Seriously, try them.
If you’re in the mood for Bar-B-Q, then make your way to Old 300 BBQ. This is a very Texas kind of joint smoking up brisket, sausage, ribs, pork loin, and more over live oak wood. You’ll love it. If you’re in town on a Saturday, you can sample their special “Akaushi” beef brisket made from an amazing flavorful and rare bovine breed.
OUTDOORS
The biggest outdoor attraction of Blanco is definitely the Blanco River where folks do everything from swim to paddle to fish, and just generally relax beside the calming blue water. The river flows right through the middle of town where you’ll find Blanco State Park – the best place to jump into the Blanco.
Nacogdoches, TX
Nacogdoches may be the oldest city in Texas, but that doesn’t mean it feels old and crusty. Modern “Nac” is full of youthful energy pouring in from Stephen F. Austin University. And you’ll discover much more than history in this historic town.
BUT – if you want to dive into the history of this town, start off at the Stone Fort Museum, a recreation of the first permanent structure in Nacogdoches built by the town’s founder Antonio Gil Y’Barbo. Next, pop over to the Nacogdoches Visitor’s Center to learn about the “9 flags of Nacogdoches.” (Yes, this town tops the State of Texas by 3 whole flags). To visit some of Nac’s historic structures, try the Sterne-Hoya House, Durst-Taylor House, and the Old University Building. After this you’ll be dying to step back in time and experience history for yourself. So head to Millard’s Crossing, a historic, hands-on village. You’ll never be more thankful for your home’s washing machine.
As you get hungry, I recommend a 14 oz “Cowboy Steak” from CC’s Smokehouse, about half of an inch thick and cooked on the flat top grill. You’ll love it. For dinner, the best place in town is Hotel Fredonia. But don’t be fooled, the food at this hotel isn’t just for weary travelers. This is the local hang out. Grab an upscale experience at J. McKinney’s Restaurant. Or take the more casual approach at the Nine Flags Bar & Grill.
If you’re looking to get outside into nature, there are two great options. The first is a casual stroll through the SFA Garden Arboretum (especially beautiful in Spring when the azaleas bloom). And the second is an adrenaline-pumping experience at ZipNac, offering a zip line adventure, high above the ground. Weeeeeeee!!!
Van Horn, TX
While there are hundreds of great towns in Texas, there is only ONE “Top” and it sits about 60 north of the town of Van Horn inside Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
Guadalupe Peak sits 8,749 feet in the sky. A trip to the top covers approximately 8.4 miles, takes 6-8 hours to hike, and includes 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Whew! But for those willing to make the hike, it is the ultimate trek in Texas. My advice is to bring lots of water, check into the visitor’s center for updated trail information, and enjoy the journey. It is amazing! For those who can’t make this hike, the park has a number of other places to explore, including some trails that are even handicap-accessible.
Before or after your hike, if you have the energy, make sure to explore the town of Van Horn. The best place to dig into its history of cattle, mining, and railroads is the Clark Hotel Museum, a quirky museum full of artifacts and knick-knacks that isn’t to be missed. Walk upstairs if you are brave enough. The other place to learn a bit of history is by visiting Hotel El Capitan, built in the 1930’s and designed by famed architect Henry Trost. This is, by far, my favorite place to stay before or after a massive hiking trip.
Hiking certainly works up an appetite. I recommend some signature huevos rancheros from Pappa’s Pantry, or a plate of West Texas Tex Mex from Chuy’s Restaurant. Chuy’s is known for its food, but also because NFL Hall-of-Famer John Madden put it on his epic “Haul of Fame” list as one of the best places to stop for road trip grub. Enjoy!
Stephenville, TX
This town calls itself the “Cowboy Capital of the World” and for good reason. Stephenville (and greater-Erath County) has more world-championship cowboys per capita than any other town on the planet. These aren’t just guys who wear hats, drive big trucks, and pretend to own horses. These are the real deal.
Start your visit with a walk along the Cowboy Capital Walk of Fame right off the square. The plaques on this city block honor the men and women who have made an impact on the cowboy culture of Stephenville. To meet one of these cowboys first hand, head to Chick Elms Grand Entry, a western store and rodeo shop started in the 1950 by walk-of-famer G.W. Lewallen and now run by rodeo champion Chick Elms. Pick yourself up a shiny pearl snap, and then head to catch the action at Lone Star Arena. This facility is constantly hosting rodeos and riding events. If you’re brave enough, you can even jump on a bull and try it yourself. For a taste of Stephenville’s modern culture, check out the campus of Tarleton State University and cheer on the Tarleton Texans.
If you’ve worked up an appetite or need some caffeine to jump start the day, head to Beans and Franks, a coffee and hot dog bar serving house-roasted coffee and gourmet hot dogs. (Warning: please consume these separately, as a coffee-hot dog pairing is not advisable). I recommend diving into the “Big Nasty”, a jalapeno sausage topped with chili, cheese, and cayenne pepper. Woo-Doggy. For a taste of Stephenville’s history, head to Jake & Dorothy’s Cafe, a town institution that’s been turning out delicious chicken-fried steaks since 1948. They’re so popular, they’ve even made the cover of Texas Monthly and may have invented the waffle fry. ??? Make sure to wash it down with a slice of pie.
For a sweet treat, I recommend heading up the road to Dublin, TX. It’s a little bit like Ireland….OK, it’s nothing like Ireland. But you can make a very sweet visit to Dublin Bottling Works, the home of bottled Dr. Pepper. While these guys may no longer be pumping out this Texas original, they do have 7 other flavors, and XXX Root Beer. Grab an old-fashioned soda at the soda shop and then wash that down with a root beer float. MMMMMMM. And another place to see is the Ben Hogan Museum honoring this Dulbin-born professional golfer who is regarded as one of the greatest golfers of all time. While you’re here, keep your eye on the sky, as you might just see one of Dulbin’s other famous visitors….UFOs.
Huntsville, TX
Some folks think the only way to visit Huntsville is in handcuffs with an official escort that definitely aint a tour guide. But trust me, visiting Huntsville is not sentenced punishment, but one of the best days in your life.
There are two major reasons Huntsville is famous. The first is General Sam Houston, arguably the greatest Texan to ever live. General Sam lived in Huntsville on multiple occasions and the best place in Texas to learn about his life is the Sam Houston Memorial Museum, which is full of artifacts and lessons on every chapter of his life. Behind the museum sits the Woodland home that Houston built and where he raised his family. Also on site is the Steamboat House where Houston died. Other notable Houston sites about town are the 77 foot tall Houston statue on I-45 at the Visitors Center, and Houston grave in the Oakwood Cemetery.
Huntsville is also famous for the being the home of the Texas Prison System. The Huntsville Unit (aka Walls Unit) was the first state penitentiary in Texas and sits just blocks from the Walker County Courthouse. Take a stroll around its towering wall, or get a glimpse beyond the wall at the Texas Prison Museum and learn all about the current and past Texas Prison System. Among its many interesting artifacts is Old Sparky Texass only electric chair used to execute 361 inmates when in commission here in Huntsville.
If you are hungry and want to stick with the prison theme, head to Mr. Hamburger (since 1959) for a Warden burger with grilled onions and mushrooms, or even an Ol Sparky complete with Texas in July sauce. For BB-Q, head to New Zion Missionary Baptist Church BBQ, or for short Church BBQ. This Baptist church also sells some of the finest BBQ in the piney woods, but its only open Thurs-Sat. And if you want to eat a meal worthy of being your last meal on earth, head to The Homestead on 19th which resides on Sam Houstons old property in an 1830’s log cabin. It is truly one of the best meals in Texas and its served in one of the most unique environments.
If you are craving the outdoors, look no further than Huntsville State Park for a swim, some fishing or a hike. You might also get to see one of the parks resident alligators. For SCUBA diving in some of the most turquoise waters north of Cancun, take a dip in The Blue Lagoon. They also allow swimming based on capacity. So call ahead.
Luling, TX
This is a town known for two things: Bar-B-Q and watermelon. Youd be hard pressed to think of two better things to be known for. According to Texas Monthly, Luling is home to some of the best BB-Q in the Lone Star State. And they are right! Luling City Market is one of Texass most-storied BB-Q joints serving up 3 meats and only 3 meats: brisket, sausage, and ribs. Across the street sits Luling Bar-B-Q a relative new-comer in Luling, as its only been around for 30 years. Try one or try them both, but make sure to save room for watermelon which can be bought just across the street at the Luling Farmers Market.
If you do buy a watermelon, Id recommend taking it down to Zedler Mill to crack it open and enjoy it on the banks of the San Marcos River at this old renovated mill and one of Texass best swimming holes. Or if you want to go a bit further, head to Palmetto State Park, and eat your watermelon in the river or while exploring its unique hiking trails full of Palmetto palms.
Other attractions in Luling worth checking out include the Central Texas Oil Patch Museum, and Lulings Pumpjack Zoo Tour with oil pumps decorated as everything from quarterbacks to killer whales.
Smithville, TX
Lots of things float in Smithville. Hope, Smoke, and YOU on a road bike when you visit Smithville.
Smithville is a picturesque and quintessential small town which is why its been the setting for tons of motion pictures. However, none made Smithville more famous than 1998’s Hope Floats starring Sandra Bullock and Harry Connick Jr. Sights from Hope Floats, Tree of Life, and many others lie all around town. The Smithville Chamber of Commerce can point you in the right direction for a self-guided tour. And Pockets Grille has tons of local movie memorabilia. In town, youll also want to see Smitty who was once the largest gingerbread man in the world. He sits at the end of Main St. and is often dressed for the seasonal holiday and weather.
Outside of town in the nearby community of Winchester is a delicious steakhouse and post office called Murphys Steakhouse. It isnt to be missed and often has more customers than the entire community of Winchester has residents. Folks come for miles to eat at Murphys and you should too. After dinner, wash it down with a scoop of Blue Bell from the Winchester Depot and a ride on an old carousel ride just outside the door. Sadly, Zimmerhanzels Bar-B-Que where we ate in the episode is shut down.
Also not to be missed is the Central Texas Museum of Automotive History in the town of Rosanky. This unexpected car museum has over 100 antique and collectible automobiles. Its incredible.
And finally, if you want to spend some time outdoors, head to Buescher State Park. You can also bike to Buescher via Bastrop State Park.
Fredericksburg, TX
Ah Bavaria! Its beautiful, its German, and its about 5,000 miles away. Lucky for us, settlers brought Germany to Texas and named it Fredericksburg.
Fredericksburg, TX is a culture clash between boots and lederhosen. It isnt uncommon to see trailers full of cows traveling through downtown and being hauled by German-speaking man wearing a cowboy hat. Seriously! Go see for yourself.
Downtown Fredericksburg is a collection of shops offering just about everything you can imagine. From lady-friendly candles (Circle E Candles) and home accessories, to man-friendly beer and brats (Fredericksburg Brewing Company) and brats. If you are looking for the full German food experience, look no further than The Auslander, an authentic German restaurant in the heart of town.
One thing you cant miss when visiting is the National Museum of the Pacific War. Believe it or not, the national museum commemorating the Pacific combat of WWII is in Fredericksburg. The museum has complete war machines, like a B-12 bomber, tanks, and a Japanese pygmy submarines.
For outdoor-minded folks, head north of town to Enchanted Rock, a stunning pink granite dome rising out of the Texas hill country.
Waco, TX
To most, Waco is a highway. Nothing more. A pass-through, not a destination. But to those who are willing to look a little deeper, Waco is much, much more.
FOOD
Kick your day off with a caffeine jolt to the mouth at Common Grounds, a locally-owned coffee shop. Common Grounds has all forms of caffeine to fuel your day trip from classics like cold brewed coffee and espresso to specialties like iced coffees with peanut butter and chocolate.
At Health Camp, they’ve got the three main food groups: Burger, Cheeseburger and Bacon Cheese Burger. If it’s soy burgers and salads you want…you won’t find them here at this 60-year old, ironically-named burger joint on the circle. Just delicious burgers and fries. And for a definitely-not-healthy dessert, try their frozen custard that comes in amazing flavors like Chocolate Chip Cheesecake, Toasted Marshmallow, Peach and more!
Hit up Tony DeMarias Bar-B-Que for some fantastic BBQ…well, if you arrive before they sell out. If you want pizza and secret hideouts, look no further than Poppa Rollos. You can try one of their specialty pizzas or create your own…and behind a secret door near the phone booth you might just find a bar.
One of my favorite things to do in Waco is grab a cold one and relax at George’s Restaurant. It’s been serving up chicken fried steaks and homecooking since 1930.
OUTDOORS
Other stops in Waco include Cameron Park, which has some of Texas best mountain biking and beautiful views of the Brazos and Bosque Rivers. And while you’re at the park, check out the Cameron Park Zoo to say “hello” to the bears, giraffes and elephants. They even have Komodo Dragons!
Right off I-35 is Texas’s Oldest University, Baylor University. Take a stroll around Baylors campus to check out Baylors Bear Habitat where they keep the mascots and also stop by the famous Pat Neff Hall.
CULTURE
If a university tour has you in the mood to learn, Waco has museums for every kind of curious tripper. History buffs should check out the Texas Ranger Museum. Science junkies should head to the Mayborn Science Museum on the Baylor University Campus.
Sports Fanatics can head to the Texas Sports Hall of Fame. But everybody should go to the Dr Pepper Museum to learn how the oldest major soft drink on the market was invented in Waco. And dont miss the old-fashioned soda fountain at the end where you can enjoy a frosty glass of Dr Pepper or an ice cream float.
Beaumont, TX
Beaumont is Texas city of lost gold Black Gold that is. Its also the melting pot between Texas and Louisiana, meaning you dont have to jump the Sabine to visit Cajun Country. Its right here in Beaumont.
Beaumonts history began to boom in 1901 when the Lucas Gusher blew at Spindletop marking the first major oil discovery in the state of Texas. Stop by the Spindletop Gladys City Boomtown to take a stroll through a recreated boomtown. If you love museums, you should also check out the McFaddin-Ward House sitting inside a historic mansion and the Fire Museum of Texas, which boasts the largest working fire hydrant in the world.
If you need to get outside, head to Village Creek State Park just north of Beaumont to bask on its sandy shores. And if you are really feeling up for an adventure, grab a canoe and take a trip down the Village Creek Paddling Trail. The Piney Woods Outfitters would be happy to set you up.
To have a first-hand experience with some of Beaumonts wildlife, head to Gator Country, a wildlife park dedicated to the alligator. You can see Big-Al (the largest captive gator in Texas) and hold the smaller, baby version.
After all this, youll be hungry I GUAR-UN-TEE. So head to the original Jasons Deli in the Gateway Shopping Center to see the humble roots of Texass best sandwich chain. For Bar-B-Q, check out the buffet at Willie Rays BBQ which is ranked as one of the Top 50 in Texas. And finally, to sample the best cajun cookin in Texas, head to Larrys French Market down the highway in Groves.
