Rusk, TX

Rusk sits about two hours southeast of Dallas and an hour south of Tyler, deep behind the Pine Curtain. Named for Texas Revolution hero and early U.S. senator Thomas J. Rusk, the Cherokee County seat has history as old as its pine trees, and the best way to arrive is by train.

Food

All Star Bar-B-Q

Owner Russell Turner has been smoking meat for more than 30 years, and he’s covered every inch of this joint in Houston Astros memorabilia. That includes a stadium sign so big they cut a hole in the door to get it inside, and yes, even the bathroom. The brisket goes on the rotisserie over hickory with no rub at all. Do it the East Texas way and get the chopped beef sandwich with sauce, pickles and jalapeños, plus a side of ribs. This barbecue hits it out of the park.

La Charra

Bright colors, heavy wooden chairs and buckets of fresh chips and salsa make La Charra feel like the Mexican restaurants of my youth. Owner Esmeralda learned to cook from her grandmother in Mexico, and Rusk loved her cooking so much they convinced her to open her own place. Start with the Piedras Negras nachos, named for her hometown, where nachos were invented. Then dig into the molcajete, a stone bowl loaded with shrimp, fajita beef and chicken, cheese and a whole cactus paddle. Save room for flan.

Culture

Texas State Railroad

The most exciting way to roll into Rusk is by rail. The Texas State Railroad runs about 25 miles between Palestine and Rusk, an hour and a half each way through the pines. The oldest parts of the line were built in the late 1800s by Texas inmates to haul iron ore to a prison foundry. Today you can ride behind a 1958 diesel locomotive, and steam engines run on occasion. Pick your class of ticket, from open air to presidential, then roam the cars and watch the creeks roll by.

Heritage Center of Cherokee County

Built over the years by the people of Cherokee County, this museum tells centuries of local stories, from the Caddo and the first mission on El Camino Real in 1716 through wartime and the legislators who served here. Volunteer director Betty Marcontell keeps it personal and hands-on, so there aren’t many glass cases. You can hold a real Civil War sword. She even tracked down all 230 of the county’s fallen veterans and honored each one with a dog tag. Check the hours before you go; it’s open weekends.

Bulah's Best Farm

Out in the country near Rusk, Donna and Tamas keep between 30 and 50 hives and treat every visitor like a guest in their home. Suit up and step into the colony, then taste their honey, from raw straight out of the box to more than two dozen infused flavors like turmeric, black pepper and cinnamon. They’ve traveled the world learning how people use bees, so you can also try bee pollen, propolis and royal jelly if you’re feeling brave. Call ahead to schedule your visit.

Outdoors

Rusk Footbridge

Good Lord willing and the creek don’t rise. Back in 1861, folks on the east side of Rusk couldn’t reach the courthouse when the creek flooded, so the town built a wooden footbridge across the valley. At 546 feet, it’s known as the longest footbridge in America. Walk it end to end through the trees and over the creek. It takes a little longer than you’d think, and the crew will gladly leave you behind.

Jim Hogg Park

Jim Hogg was the first native-born governor of Texas, and in the late 1800s he helped steer the state from farming into the industrial age. He set up the Railroad Commission, fought corruption and earned the nickname the people’s governor long before anybody else claimed it. Here in Rusk you’ll find a recreation of his childhood home on land that was once an official Texas state park. Picnic under the big shade trees and stretch your legs on the grounds.

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