Houston, TX

The hardest part about “daytripping” to Houston is choosing what to do.  The “Bayou City” or “Space City” or “Htown” (whatever you want to call it) has a ton of really fun things to do.

More than any other Texas city, Houston breaks itself up into smaller pieces by districts and neighborhoods.  I decided to spend my day in Houston by daytripping to some of my favorites.  Now, I have a ton of them, but I narrowed it down to three.   Here we go!

CHINATOWN – This area boasts one of the largest Asian populations in America, and is much more diverse than just Chinese residents.  I love it because it truly feels like a trip overseas without leaving Texas.  I always like popping into HK Food Market for a shopping experience very different from my normal trips to the store.  The fresh fish counter is something to behold.  This spot is guaranteed to make you hungry, so head on over to HK Dim Sum where you can eat some of the tastiest “dim sum” that I’ve ever had.  It’s basically like a full meal of appetizers.

MUSEUM DISTRICT – With 19 museums, this place is oozing with culture.  The central hub is Hermann Park which is basically Houston’s Central Park.  Folks come out here to picnic, ride pedal boats, see the Japanese Gardens, go to the zoo, and roll down Miller Hill.  If you only have time for one, make it the Houston Museum of Natural Science with incredible exhibits on Paleontology (think dinosaurs with a lot more), Egypt (yes they have mummies), gems, malacoloy, butterflies and tons more.  You could literally make an entire day trip out of this museum.  If art is more your speed, then you shouldn’t miss The Menil Collection, a free museum that is surely one of the best art museums in America.  You can see Picasso, Warhol, McGrit, and many more.

MONTROSE – This is where all the cool kids hang out to eat, shop, drink, and be merry.  The main drag of Westheimer is full of trendy shops for clothing, antiques, and that elusive gift you’ve been looking for for your sister.  The drinks are abundant at places like Hay Merchant and Anvil.  And if you want food, look no further than El Real Tex-Mex, where famed food writer Robb Walsh and celebrity chef Brian Caswell have teamed up to bring you the most authentic Tex-Mex experience you can have in Texas.  Seriously, they’ve done the research and have each recipe nailed down to its most essential form.  Try the cheese enchiladas with an egg, and you’re sure to agree that Tex-Mex is the only way to Mex.  And finally, to wash it down, you need to head to The Chocolate Bar with hundreds of items filled, covered, and dipped in chocolate.

San Marcos, TX

If you’ve only seen I-35, then you haven’t seen San Marcos.  This laid back college town deserves a day, or more, and I recommend starting with the water.  The beautiful San Marcos river pops out of the ground at the Aquarena Center and travels downstream until it merges with the Guadalupe River.  But on its journey through town, it is one of the most pristine and stunning rivers in Texas.  Take a glass-bottom boat ride and be amazed at all you can see, such as plants, fish, and the Texas River Cooter (it’s a turtle).  If you are dying to get into the water, then swimming abounds at Sewell Park (where the college kids hang out) or Rio Vista Park (where everyone hangs out).  You can rent a tube from the Lion’s Club and ride to your heart’s content.  Or if you’re looking for a more thrilling adventure, take a whitewater kayak lesson from the Olympic Outdoor Center.  This is some of the most fun you can have in Texas.

Once you dry off, you’re sure to be hungry, so head up the street to Herbert’s Taco Hut and grub on some delicious, authentic, and secret recipes.  The carne guisada plate is amazing and they’ve also been voted “Best Enchiladas” in Hays County multiple years running.  For something completely different every day and completely fresh, head to the Root Cellar Cafe and Brewery just off the square.  Everything on this chef-inspired menu is amazing.  I always just go with the special, and I’ve never gone wrong.  Finally, for desert, GO GO GO to Rhea’s Ice Cream where Rhea herself makes some of the most delicious and inventive cream you’ve ever had.  Circus animal cookie, avocado coconut, big red, the list goes on and on.

For the cultural side of town, you can walk the square and take in the sights.  You can head to Texas State University and pretend you’re still in college.  You can dive into the haunted legend of the Thompson Island Bridge.  But my favorite thing to do is visit The Wittliff Collection on Texas State’s campus on the top floor of the library.  This artist’s retreat has amazing works including a phenomenal collection of Lonesome Dove memorability, as the founder (Bill Wittliff) was the producer and screenwriter for this epic TV series.

And when it is all said and done, head to Cheatham Street Warehouse to have a cold one and hear some live music in the same place where George Straight and his band Ace in the Hole played their very first gig.  That’s pure Texas history right there.

Johnson City, TX

This hill country town may be small, but it boasts some of the biggest personalities in Texas.  While it wasn’t named after him, this community was the home the Lyndon B. Johnson, the 36th President of the United States of America.

To learn about his roots, visit the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park and start in town at LBJ’s Boyhood home.  Then follow Highway 290 West and visit the Texas White House.  You can tour the ranch and the beautiful house that LBJ called home when not in Washington.  Don’t miss the Texas State Park which is also on the site.

All this travel will certainly make you hungry, so head into town and grub at Ronnie’s Bar-B-Q.  Once a convenience store, the BBQ slowly took over everything else.  And today you’ll find it packed with locals looking for some of Ronnie’s legendary “Q”.  I also highly recommend Pecan Street Brewing.  This brewpub has amazing craft beer on tap along with delicious menu items like brick oven pizza and my favorite – Pecan Street Pecan Sweet Chicken, which is a fried chicken breast topped with honey butter and pecans!  It is killer!

Of course, don’t forget to pick up a stick of jerky at Whittington’s Beef Jerky which has been making jerky for 50 years!  It is some of the best in Texas.

If you are looking to head outdoors, go to Pedernales Falls State Park and take in the natural beauty of the hill country.  But if you’d prefer to enjoy nature from the comfort of your air-conditioned vehicle, head to the Benini Sculpture Ranch and take a driving tour of incredible (and strange) sculptures along a 1-mile trail.

El Paso, TX

I describe El Paso as a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet.  It is crusted with history, rugged outdoors, seasoned personalities, and delectable food.

If you’re in town, I recommend starting off by learning about the culture of this “Boot Capital of the World.”  For history, start at the Magoffin Home, an 1874 adobe house built by the 4-time mayor of El Paso.  I don’t know of any other adobe homes in Texas that rival the interesting beauty of this one.  Next, trace your steps to the Wild West side of town and visit the historic Concordia Cemetery, holding the graves of the famous and infamous of El Paso, including gunslinger John Wesley Hardin.  Finally, for the modern culture of El Paso, learn about its boot-making heritage by visiting one of the Lucchese or Tony Llama stores.  And to see custom boots unlike any other, head to Rocketbuster Boots where they make custom boots that are basically art for your feet.

Being a border town, the influence of El Paso’s sister city of Juarez is everywhere.  You can see the Texas-Mexico line yourself at Border Monument Number 1.  Or you can simply eat your way through Mexican culture at one of the many AMAZING Mexican food restaurants all over town.  I highly recommend L&J Cafe where you can eat the same green sauce enchiladas they have been serving since 1927.  Or you can follow the masses of locals that swear by Chicos Tacos, a fast-food, rolled-taco joint serving up the most addictive food in the city.

If you’re like me, you’ll want to enjoy the natural side of town, so head to Franklin Mountains State Park and enjoy some of this amazing mountain range considered to be the southern-most tip of the Rocky Mountains.  A hike to the Aztec Caves is well worth the effort, or you can take the easy way up and enjoy the mountains (and city) from 5,632 feet high atop the Wyler Aerial Tramway.  Which is a must-stop on any trip to El Paso!

Amarillo, TX

As they say “Step into Real Texas.”  This city may be a long haul for many Texans, but it is worth the drive.  And if you can make it to “Amarillo by Morning” then you must stop in at Youngblood’s Stockyards Cafe which serves an amazing breakfast and is attached to Amarillo’s historic stockyards.  On Mondays you can even catch a live auction.  The other food joint, you MUST check out is the Big Texan Steak Ranch, where they give out FREE 72oz steaks.  Small catch – you’ve gotta eat it in one hour, along with a table full of sides.  Good luck!

Amarillo was built on beef and the cattle industry is still the lifeblood of town.  But it takes more than cows to have a successful ranch, so head to the America Quarter Horse Hall of Fame & Museum to learn about the most popular horse breed in the world and the one that makes ranching happen.

The decades of the cattle drives gave way to decades of cross-country drives on America’s “mother road” – Route 66 which passed through Amarillo.  You can visit some vestiges of this era in the Historic Rte 66 District, or explore the way folks used to travel in style at The RV Museum.

And, finally, if you’re the type that thinks the panhandle is nothing but flat earth – you are WRONG!  And a trip to Palo Duro Canyon State Park is a must.  This is officially the second largest canyon in the U.S.  There is tons of hiking available, but I recommend a mountain bike ride to the Lighthouse, which is truly one of the most beautiful sights in Texas.

 

 

Georgetown, TX

If a place is known for having the “Most Beautiful Town Square in Texas” it’s probably a good idea to start your day trip on the square.  Grab a cup of coffee at local shop and roaster Cianfrani Coffee Co and then get to exploring.  Check out the old-fashioned and American-made toys at All Things Kids.  Strap on some moccasins and buffalo headdress at Tribal Impressions, a southwest apparel and artwork store.  Work on your guitar licks at Ken’z Guitars.  And learn about the history of Georgetown and Williamson County at the Williamson County Museum and Historic Courthouse.

When you are ready to eat, there are tons of options.  Juicy burgers from Burger University.  Tasty pizza and sandwiches at Roots Bistro.  Seafood at Gumbo’s.  Or Thai from Dia Thai Cuisine.  And finally, wash it down with a cupcake from Galaxy Bakery.  Just blocks away from the square are the legendary Monument Cafe for homecooking and El Monumento for delectable interior Mexican.

For adventure on this trip, there are tons of things to do.  Georgetown has the legendary Blue Hole where you can take a dip in the San Gabriel River.  You can rock climb behind St. David’s Hospital.  You can go deep into the earth at Inner Space Caverns.  Or, with a group of about 10, you can do the most challenging thing in town by team building and flying high at the Georgetown Challenge Course.

 

Kingsland, TX

Imagine a place flowing with pristine rivers and lakes, a place with vineyards as far as the eye can see, and home-cooked food so delicious you’ll feel like you’re eating a royal feast.  That is a land fit for a king, which is exactly why they call it KINGSLAND.  The true beauty of this Kings…land doesn’t lie in the city, but in its surroundings which contains tons of things to do. Kingsland sits along the Colorado River and the beautiful Lake LBJ.  It also straddles the border between Burnet and Llano counties.  Both Lake LBJ and the nearby Inks Lake are constant level lakes, meaning the lakes stay full year round when other Texas lakes dip due to droughts.  To experience Lake LBJ, start at the Lake LBJ Yacht Club and Marina.  Don’t worry, this isn’t a snooty yacht club, but a down-home, hill country place to rent a boat or play at the Granite Beach Waterpark full of inflatable water toys.  The waterpark is open weekends Memorial to Labor Day. If you are looking for history, check out Kingsland’s Antler’s Inn, built in 1901 as a resort and refuge for railroad workers and travelers.  Also on property is the actual house from the filming of the 1974 classic Texas Chainsaw Massacre.  The house has received a new coat of paint and doesn’t look as terrifying as it once did, but if you cock your head just right, you can almost hear the grind of a distant chainsaw.  Today the home serves up delicious cuisine as the Grand Central Cafe.  And the steaks are way better than the ones Leatherface whipped up. If you are looking for grub, head for a delicious burger or chicken fried steak at the local Hoover’s Valley Cafe, one of the few remaining relics of a long-forgotten town.  And if you want a view to go with that food, head to On The Rocks, a delicious homemade Italian joint perched atop a tall cliff and overlooking Lake LBJ. Finally, if you are looking to truly feel like a king, head to one of the area’s wineries.  I highly, highly recommend visiting the Martin family of Perissos Vineyards.  Beyond being incredibly nice, they are making some of the finest wines in Texas.  Visit in July and August and you can even help them harvest and stomp the produce!

Fort Davis, TX

It may take a while to get there, but great places are worth the effort, and Fort Davis is a great place.  You’d be amazed at all this small, mountain, desert town has to offer.

Start off by learning about the town’s namesake fort at the Fort Davis National Historic Site where you’ll learn about how the U.S. Army tamed the wild Texas frontier and opened it up for settlement.  You can also have an opportunity to dive into the history of the American “Buffalo Soldier.”

To see the natural side of this rugged frontier, head to Davis Mountains State Park and hike to bike to a summit that gives you a view of town, the fort and the surrounding mountains.  Don’t miss the Indian Lodge, built by the CCC in the 1930s.

As you head into town for some food, I recommend a fresh-sliced sandwich at Stone Village Market.  A small convenience store packed with organic goods that is basically like a miniature Whole Foods of the desert.  You can grab a burger and milkshake at the renovated .  Or grab a slice of the cheesiest pizza this side of the Colorado River at Murphy’s Pizzeria.

As you are a looking to learn a bit around town, head to the “largest rattlesnake exhibit on the planet” at Rattler’s and Reptiles boasting 19 species of rattlesnakes as well as tarantulas and other crawly bugs.  Eeeek!  If you are looking for a less scaly way to pass the time, visit Mr. Ron Cox of the Davis Mountain Broom Shop and watch him make an old-fashioned broom the old fashioned way.

Finally, no trip to Fort Davis would be complete without a trip to the University of Texas McDonald Observatory, one of the premiere observatories in the world that couldn’t be more visitor friendly.  Due to the almost non-existent light pollution in the mountains, the telescopes here have one of the clearest views of the stars and planets on earth.  Don’t miss a daytime tour or star party.  Just make sure you have advanced reservations.

San Antonio, TX – Southtown

San Antonio has no shortage of tourist attractions.  The Alamo.  The Riverwalk.  Sea World.  Fiesta Texas.  Enchiladas.  But if you’re a native Texan, chances are you’ve already done all of these.  I still recommend going back.  BUT – if you’re looking to experience a different side of San Antonio, I’ve got your direction – SOUTH.

Just south of the well-traveled downtown is Southtown, San Antonio’s burgeoning art district.  It is packed with restaurants, art galleries, history, and hipsters.  Let’s take it piece by piece.

If you’re hungry already, head to El Sol Bakery and Bistro, a Mexican panaderia catching this old concept up to modern times.  They use only whole wheat, no animal fats (aka no lard), and everything is made fresh daily.  You’ll be amazing at how good Mexican breads can truly taste when they haven’t been sitting in the glass cabinet for days.  For lunch head to Liberty Bar which occupies an old renovated convent. Don’t miss their homemade fettucini.  And finally, for dinner, head to the Alamo Street Eat Bar and dine at one of San Antonio’s newest food trucks.  I highly recommend the Institute of Chili run by Chili Queens, Anna and Jenn.  The original Chili Queens invented Tex Mex on the streets of San Antonio and these gals are taking it to a whole new level.  Don’t miss “The Bomb”, a shredded pork sandwich topped with Chili and a fried egg.  Mmmmmmmm.  And then to wrap up the night, head to the Beethoven Maennerchor, a German beer garden and singing club that’s been around since 1867!  Most don’t think of the Germans when they think of San Antonio, but this will change your mind.

If you’re looking for something to see in Southtown, head to the Blue Star Art Complex and check out the contemporary art at the Blue Star Contemporary Art Museum.  Next drive through San Antonio’s King William District with some of the most amazing homes in all of Texas, including Villa Finale which is open for tours.  Saved by Walter Mathis, this home contains an amazing collection of collections!  Everything Mr. Mathis kept in his home is on display, including a real Napoleon Death Mask.

So, everybody knows about the Alamo.  But, those that want to head further south can visit the other 4 missions of San Antonio inside of the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park.  From Mission Concepcion to San Jose to San Juan to Espada, these grounds and chapels tell the story of Texas’s first settlers from Spain.  They are amazing, and an absolute MUST-SEE for every traveler to San Antonio.

If you’re looking for something less legendary but more urban-legendary, visit the haunted ghost tracks of San Antonio at the intersection of Shane Rd. and Villamin Rd.  Legend holds that a school bus full of children died at this intersection when the bus broke down on the tracks in front of an oncoming train.  To this day, any car that stops near the tracks will be pushed over the tracks to safety by the ghost children.  Don’t believe me?  Then try it.  Park about 50 feet before the tracks on Shane Rd., put the car in neutral and turn off the engine.  Let off the brakes and be amazed as you travel up hill over the tracks.  Your doubt will be erased when you end up over the tracks, safe and sound.

If you’re looking for a way to navigate all of this, hop on a B cycle – San Antonio’s bike share program.  A simple fee gets you a bike all day with multiple stations all over the city.  It is easy and fun.  Seriously.  And you can explore parts of the city that you never knew of such as the newly remodeled parts of the riverwalk.

 

Nacogdoches, TX

Nacogdoches may be the oldest city in Texas, but that doesn’t mean it feels old and crusty.  Modern “Nac” is full of youthful energy pouring in from Stephen F. Austin University.  And you’ll discover much more than history in this historic town.

BUT – if you want to dive into the history of this town, start off at the Stone Fort Museum, a recreation of the first permanent structure in Nacogdoches built by the town’s founder Antonio Gil Y’Barbo.  Next, pop over to the Nacogdoches Visitor’s Center to learn about the “9 flags of Nacogdoches.”  (Yes, this town tops the State of Texas by 3 whole flags).  To visit some of Nac’s historic structures, try the Sterne-Hoya House, Durst-Taylor House, and the Old University Building.  After this you’ll be dying to step back in time and experience history for yourself.  So head to Millard’s Crossing, a historic, hands-on village.  You’ll never be more thankful for your home’s washing machine.

As you get hungry, I recommend a 14 oz “Cowboy Steak” from CC’s Smokehouse, about half of an inch thick and cooked on the flat top grill.  You’ll love it.  For dinner, the best place in town is Hotel Fredonia.  But don’t be fooled, the food at this hotel isn’t just for weary travelers.  This is the local hang out.  Grab an upscale experience at J. McKinney’s Restaurant.  Or take the more casual approach at the Nine Flags Bar & Grill.

If you’re looking to get outside into nature, there are two great options.  The first is a casual stroll through the SFA Garden Arboretum (especially beautiful in Spring when the azaleas bloom).  And the second is an adrenaline-pumping experience at ZipNac, offering a zip line adventure, high above the ground.  Weeeeeeee!!!

Corpus Christi, TX

While not technically on the coast, Corpus Christi offers one the best beach vibes in Texas, as visitors play in and beside the blue waters of Corpus Christi Bay.  There are tons of things to do in town, both ON and OFF, the beaten tourist path.

If you want museums, Corpus has them.  Start by learning about natural and man-made history of town at the Corpus Christi Museum of Science and History, where you can view full-sized replicas of Columbus’s ships – the man Corpus claims as its forefather given the prominent Spanish influence all over town.  Fast forward a few hundred years in seafaring technology and visit the USS Lexington, a WWII aircraft carrier turned museum.  I highly recommend making a reservation for a “hard hat tour” and dive into the belly of the beast below deck.  While there, walk over a few blocks and pet a stingray at the Texas State Aquarium.  I also recommend the Texas Surf Museum downtown which has a number of vintage boards and information on Texas’s hidden surf culture.

All this learning is sure to work up an appetite, and any trip to downtown Corpus should include a stop at Whataburger by the Bay, the double-decker flagship restaurant of this Texas burger chain which started in Corpus Christi in a wooden shack.  The Executive Surf Club is a great place to grab a beer, fried shrimp, and sandwiches.  Don’t worry, you don’t have to be a surfer to get in.  But, if you are in the mood for pizza, look no further than Panjo’s Pizza, the thin-crust original serving up slices since the 1960’s.  Friday and Saturday nights, Panjo’s features “Bubba and the Boys” a good-time ragtime piano and brass group.  You’ll be singing along in no time.

If you are looking to spend some time under the Corpus sunshine, you can join the sunbathing masses at McGee Beach which is right next to downtown or Corpus Christi Beach (formerly North Beach) just over the bridge by the USS Lexington.  Those interested in a drive can head to North Padre Island on the Padre Island National Seashore or Mustang Island State Park.

And finally, for adventure junkies, one of the best kept secrets of Corpus is the constant wind blowing through the air, making it one of the best places in the world to kite surf.  If you want to try to capture the wind and have it carry you over the bay, set up a private lesson with Pro Kite Surf.  After 3 hours or so, you’ll have it down.

Van Horn, TX

While there are hundreds of great towns in Texas, there is only ONE “Top” and it sits about 60 north of the town of Van Horn inside Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

Guadalupe Peak sits 8,749 feet in the sky.  A trip to the top covers approximately 8.4 miles, takes 6-8 hours to hike, and includes 3,000 feet of elevation gain.  Whew!  But for those willing to make the hike, it is the ultimate trek in Texas.  My advice is to bring lots of water, check into the visitor’s center for updated trail information, and enjoy the journey.  It is amazing!  For those who can’t make this hike, the park has a number of other places to explore, including some trails that are even handicap-accessible.

Before or after your hike, if you have the energy, make sure to explore the town of Van Horn.  The best place to dig into its history of cattle, mining, and railroads is the Clark Hotel Museum, a quirky museum full of artifacts and knick-knacks that isn’t to be missed.  Walk upstairs if you are brave enough.  The other place to learn a bit of history is by visiting Hotel El Capitan, built in the 1930’s and designed by famed architect Henry Trost.  This is, by far, my favorite place to stay before or after a massive hiking trip.

Hiking certainly works up an appetite.  I recommend some signature huevos rancheros from Pappa’s Pantry, or a plate of West Texas Tex Mex from Chuy’s Restaurant.  Chuy’s is known for its food, but also because NFL Hall-of-Famer John Madden put it on his epic “Haul of Fame” list as one of the best places to stop for road trip grub.  Enjoy!

 

 

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