Food
Texas Scratch Kitchen
Three sisters grew up partly in England, missed the pastry when the family moved back to Texas, and built the French bakery Menard was missing. Come hungry: almond croissants, a cherry-blueberry danish, a savory pastry loaded with artichoke and goat cheese. The sirloin sandwich comes on house-made focaccia.
Summerland Public House
The Apache called this country Summerland, and legend held that anyone who drank from the San Saba would thirst to return forever. That is how the pub got its name. It is a craft-food oasis in a town of 1,300, but smash burgers are most of what goes out the door, so order the Public House Double.
Culture
Presidio San Saba
Spain meant this to grow bigger than San Antonio. More than 400 people lived inside these walls until a war band destroyed the mission downstream in 1758 and ended that plan. The presidio held out under siege for a decade before Spain retreated. Look at the gate stones: Jim Bowie carved his name here.
Fort McKavett
One of the best-preserved Indian Wars forts in Texas, parked on a hilltop because the Comanche war trail ran within three miles. Built in 1852 and active until 1883, it was home to the 24th Infantry, one of the storied Buffalo Soldier regiments. Walk the barracks where four men shared a single bunk.
Outdoors
Hot Tub Swimming Hole
Eight miles out of town the San Saba runs over a rock shelf and pools into a swimming hole that feels custom-built. Locals cannot agree what to call it, but everybody agrees on what to do when they get there. Buffalo Soldiers once fought a skirmish on this exact spot. Rule one of day tripping: bring a swimsuit.
